The Apples Are Back

 

by Kristine Paulus

The apple is one of the most overused metaphors of the fruit world so perhaps it’s no surprise that a single cultivar managed to establish a near monopoly in the Malus market. Until relatively recently, the paradoxically named ‘Red Delicious’ was pretty much the only apple most people knew. While it is very red, it’s not particularly delicious. Bred to last for eternity, ‘Red Delicious’ is hard as a rock with a tough skin, mealy center and a bitter taste. As a kid I would only eat an apple if it was turned into a pie, sauce, butter, fritter, ring or cider. Apples were what mean people put in your Trick or Treat bag. In the 19th century tens of thousands of varieties of apples were grown in the United States, only to be whittled down to just a few bland ones by the 1970s and 80s.  Fortunately, since the 90s there’s been a resurging interest in heirloom apple cultivars and we now have more choices in grocery stores, farmers markets and, of course, the CSA.

Recent CSA shares have been anything but an apple monoculture and have  included such cultivars as ‘Cortland’, ‘Fuji’, ‘Gala’, ‘Ginger Gold’, ‘Golden Supreme’ and ‘Macoun’. 

• ‘Cortland’ is an excellent all-purpose apple bred in 1898 in New York state. A descendant of ‘McIntosh’, It is slightly tart and excellent for baking, snacking and in salads. 

• ‘Fuji’ is a 1930s hybrid from Japan. It has a crisp, sweet flavor and is quite juicy.  

• Semi-sweet and slightly tart, ‘Gala’ was introduced in the 1920s and also great for eating or cooking. 

• ‘Ginger Gold’ is small, early season apple with sweet and creamy flesh and a hint of spice. It’s great fresh but can be cooked as well. It was discovered growing in an orchard in Virginia in the 1960s.

• ‘Golden Supreme’ was discovered as a chance seedling in 1890 in West Virginia. It’s quite sweet, with notes of honey and pear and very little tartness. It’s great for eating or baking. 

• Best eaten fresh, ‘Macoun’ is a sweet and flavorful late season apple. This is another New York State varietal from the 1920s.

I’m rather lackadaisical in the kitchen so I’ve made practically effortless pies with every one of these varieties. All of them turned out quite well. I simply peeled and chopped the apples, filled a (store-bought) crust, added a pinch of cinnamon but no added sugar, and baked in my toaster oven at 375° for about 45 minutes and let stand for a bit.